'Lecce retains a stately quality, almost of a drawing room distinct from the amenities of the surrounding area. If one enters the old part, the many Baroque churches and palaces, now on the face, now on the side, in small squares and streets, and arranged in corners with a theatrical flair, would look like a series of small theatres. Everything seems arranged and adorned for a slight theatrical play; a comedy by Goldoni would not be out of place here; church façades, palaces and their combined effects, hand down through the centuries an exquisitely provisional mood, as if they were to last just one evening, but an evening that counts, perhaps definitive. (Guido Piovene)
Lecce
Lecce is the capital of the province of the same name in Apulia and one of the best known and most visited towns in Salento. Geographically, it is located in the central-northern part of the Salento peninsula within the Lecce plateau, a lowland area enclosed by the Murge (to the north) and the Salento greenhouses (to the south). A particular element that characterises the entire area is a very malleable rock formation called 'pietra leccese', which has been widely used to build churches, public buildings, stately homes and public facilities. Lecce for its long and fascinating history - which has its roots in pre-Roman times - and for the elegance of its architectural style called 'Lecce Baroque', is an unmissable stop during your Salento trip.
Lecce, strategically located in the immediate vicinity of the Maldives of Salento, is a city that fascinates not only for its wealth of works of art and historical testimonies, but also for the beauty of its ancient centre, where the Baroque architecture in Lecce stone creates a unique atmosphere, where the warm colours of the rocky material mingle with the blue of the sky and the grey of the paved streets. Visiting Lecce means, above all, appreciating the uniqueness of the buildings lining the streets and squares and letting oneself be captivated by the rich Baroque forms that decorate every corner of the city. The symbol of Lecce is the famous Piazza Sant'Oronzo, which encompasses centuries of history thanks to the presence of buildings such as the Roman Amphitheatre, the 16th-century Sedile, the 29-metre-high 17th-century Column of Sant'Oronzo that dominates the space, and ancient palaces from different historical periods. Strolling through the narrow streets you will reach the imposing Basilica of Santa Croce, a true example of Lecce Baroque, built from 1549 onwards and marvellous in the opulent decorations that enrich its façade and frame its gigantic rose window. You cannot miss a stop in Piazza del Duomo which, scenic in its layout, houses not only the Cathedral but also the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Bishop's Palace and the Seminary. Finally, you can visit the Castle of Charles V, where you will be amazed by the courtyards and 16th-century rooms and take advantage of the exhibitions and displays that are periodically held there. If you have the opportunity to move around, you can also visit many other interesting neighbouring centres such as Otranto, the suggestive Alimini Lakes, Porto Badisco, Nardò and Galatina.
Lovers of good food and wine will find a true food and wine paradise in Lecce, made up of traditional dishes with tasty and intense flavours. Starting with first courses, you can try 'ciceri e tria', a pasta similar to the typical 'lagane', to be eaten with chickpeas, or 'orecchiette' seasoned with sauce and goat's ricotta cheese, with very strong notes. Among the many second courses, we find horse meat with sauce, the traditional 'turcinieddhi' (i.e. roulades of lamb entrails, barbecued), octopus and potatoes 'alla pignata', cooked as the name suggests in an earthenware pot, and the 'galletto di Sant'Oronzo' eaten on the feast of the saint, in August, stewed and seasoned with tomato sauce. Lastly, three cornerstones of street food are not to be missed: 'puccia', a typical local bread stuffed in different ways, 'rustico' made of puff pastry filled with mozzarella, béchamel and tomato sauce, and 'pasticciotto', a delicious pastry filled with custard (also available in other variations). To round off your meal, we also recommend Il caffè leccese made with coffee, ice and almond milk, a very refreshing drink with a unique flavour.
The events that enliven the Lecce calendar are many and varied, and all linked to the city's ancient cultural and craft traditions. On Palm Saturday, there is the Fair of San Lazzaro, which includes the organisation of a typical market dedicated to Easter products to coincide with the Saint's feast day. From 3 to 6 May, it is the turn of the Fair of St Irene in which a traditional market is organised, winding its way through the narrow streets of the town. Also in May, there is the Fair of the Bells where it is possible to see an exhibition of bells (typical of the local craft) made of terracotta and various materials. One of the most eagerly awaited and heartfelt events is certainly the Festival and Fair of Sant'Oronzo, from 24 to 26 August: three days of festivities in which three days of festivities with band concerts in the light of the illuminations that decorate the main streets of the town. In the first ten days of October, on the other hand, there is the 'la cecora resta' festival dedicated to the tasting of wild chicory, a typical food of the Salento gastronomic tradition that can be tasted in many different recipes. Lastly, we would like to mention the Fiera dei pupi e dei pastori (Fair of puppets and shepherds), from 13 to 24 December: a veritable market-exhibition where masterpieces by craftsmen specialised in the art of papier-mâché are displayed, a tradition dating back to the 16th century, whose items were requested by churches and convents to decorate chapels and altars. Today, the Fair of the Puppets and Shepherds is an opportunity not to forget this ancient art, and to enhance an ancient craft that is still able to enchant.