In Calabria, there is a place called the 'Area Grecanica' of incredible historical, cultural and anthropological interest. Here, in fact, we speak the ancient Greek that was once the language of the Hellenic peoples who, once they arrived on the Calabrian coast, settled there permanently. A land to be protected and known, therefore, immersed in a characteristic and rural landscape that we cannot fail to explore and get to know.
The Grecanica (or Grecofona or Bovesìa) area is an area of the Calabrian territory located in the extreme south of the Ionic slope of Aspromonte. It encompasses 11 municipalities (Bagaladi, Bova, Brancaleone, Condofuri, Melito di Porto Salvo, Palizzi, Roccaforte del Greco, Roghudi, San Lorenzo and Staiti) located around the Bova mountains (hence Bovesia). The centres are located along the valley of the fiumara dell'Amendolea, not far from the coast on a mainly mountainous territory crossed by streams and small waterfalls. The area is considered the last stronghold of the ancient Greek language, spoken millennia ago in Calabria. This region, in fact, was not only an important crossroads during trade exchanges that united East and West, but was also a place chosen by the Hellenic peoples for long-lasting settlements. Precisely, the Grecanica Area includes the municipalities of: The Greek language, however, is in danger of slowly disappearing: in Bova and Condofuri it is spoken mainly by the older generations, while in Gallicianò and Roghudi those who know it use it mainly in the private sphere. The gradual disappearance of Greek has been determined by several factors, the most relevant of which have certainly been hydrogeological instability and territorial isolation due to the very few internal connections. Until the 1950s, in fact, many villages in this area lacked driveways and the only existing connections consisted of winding mule tracks. All this led to heavy immigration and a gradual disappearance of the Calabrian hellephs. Today, the settlement lies largely within the borders of the Aspromonte National Park, and is immersed in peaceful tranquillity. The territory, now discreetly urbanised, nevertheless retains certain characteristics that make this land a 'difficult' place, and perhaps also for this reason still uncontaminated and fascinating.
The experiences and things to do in Bovesia are many and all in the sign of authenticity. The archaic pastoral dimension, in fact, seems to invade every sphere: traditions, places and stories intertwine, creating unique suggestions that are difficult to find elsewhere. In the Grecanica area, an area made up of hills crossed by torrents, there is no shortage of opportunities for trekking along nature trails that start from Palizzi, Condofuri and Bova and lead to springs, waterfalls and panoramic viewpoints. Churches of ancient origin and imposing castles enrich the area with their historical and cultural value: in Amendolea (a hamlet of Bova) the beautiful ruins of the 14th century castle stand the test of time, while in Montebello Jonico, the Piromallo castle is an interesting testimony that takes us back to the 18th century. In Palizzi, the church of Sant'Anna still preserves parts of mediaeval architecture, while in Bova Marina it is possible to travel even further back in time and visit an archaeological site that documents the presence of man in the area since the Neolithic period. Romantic and picturesque walks to ancient mills and olive presses (such as those in Palizzi and Bagaladi) will be ideal for rediscovering the rural aspect of this land and allowing oneself an escape from everyday modernity. Lastly, to really get to know the culture and history of this territory and the peoples that have inhabited and still inhabit it, a visit to the many museums dedicated to local rural traditions is recommended. In Bova, for example, there are some beautiful and interesting realities such as the Agro-Pastoral Museum of the Hellenophone Area, the Civic Museum of Palaeontology and the 'Gerhard Rohlfs' Museum of the Greek-Calabra Language. These are important places full of important values: here, a local identity is celebrated and valorised that absolutely must be defended and protected so that it does not disappear over time.
The typical dishes of the Grecanica area have much in common with the cuisine of Aspromonte, which includes traditional peasant foods made with genuine ingredients, often defined as 'poor', but with great taste and flavour. Besides bread, made in some cases still with rye flour, acorns or chestnuts, it is possible to taste the 'pitta 'rustuta', a pita similar to that of the Greek tradition, and the 'lestopitta', which is similar but fried and served hot, perhaps folded in on itself and stuffed with meat and vegetable sauces. Homemade pasta has a long tradition: the 'cordelle', made from rye flour, eggs and milk, are kneaded until they form long cords rolled into spirals. Once dried and then cooked, they are seasoned with a light sauce, oil, cheese and pepper, while 'ricchi i previti' are typical gnocchetti made from barley and potatoes. In this area, goat or sheep meat cooked 'in tortiera' (i.e. in an earthenware pot placed in an oven on a bed of burning embers that also cover the lid) and pork is widely consumed: the 'curcudìa', a polenta made with pork cracklings, is particular, while soppressate, capicolli and meat preserved in brine are dishes that must be absolutely tasted. he butchering of pork is often still accompanied by the making of 'frittole', i.e. fragments of pork cooked over a low heat in a pot lined with fat. The pecorino (sheep's) cheese made from local sheep's and goat's milk is excellent, as is the fresh or smoked ricotta, consumed especially during the Easter and Christmas periods. The typical desserts, as in much of the Calabrian territory, are linked to the rural world and the religious sphere: the 'scaddateddi' are crumbly cymino-flavoured doughnuts, linked to the wedding rite, of which they were once a sort of 'bomboniera' for guests; the 'buffeddi' are made from a dough stuffed with sweet potatoes, vino cotto, cinnamon and cloves; and finally the 'Petrali', Christmas sweets made from a white wine-flavoured dough stuffed with dried figs, walnuts and almonds mixed with vino cotto: They exist in two versions, one closed and one open, decorated with strings of dough and coloured sugared almonds. Each municipality in the area has its own customs and gastronomic traditions, and discovering them will be a journey into a distant and elusive past to relive by savouring ancient flavours.
The events celebrated in the Grecanica area are diverse and most are linked to popular worship and the religious sphere. Although there is no shortage of events dedicated to entertainment and modern culture. Palm Sunday in Bova sees the traditional Festa delle Pupazze (Feast of the Dolls) in which the Pupazze, or female silhouettes obtained by weaving olive branches, are carried in a procession and, when it is over, are blessed. Bova also celebrates St. Leo at the beginning of May, which includes a religious celebration and a solemn procession in which all the inhabitants of the village participate; the same solemn participation is found in Palizzi, in July, during the feast of St. Anna. But in the Grecanica area, there are two very important events that take place throughout the year: the 'Paleariza Festival', in August, an event that includes many appointments located in the Greek-speaking municipalities of Calabria, in which the history and identity of this land are celebrated through performances, music and events, and the 'Pentedattilo Film Festival', an international festival dedicated exclusively to short films, highlighting the world's short film scene. The event takes place in the village of Pentedattilo, in the province of Reggio Calabria, which has been celebrated by many travellers of the past for its small and characteristic village appearance, and is now the protagonist of a cultural rebirth against the abandonment that this area rich in history and charm has experienced and risks experiencing.
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