The small village of Aliano rises 555 metres above sea level, on a rocky spur immersed in the evocative landscape furrowed by the white and imposing calanchi, natural elements that envelop this destination in a silent and lunar dimension. From the high ground on which it stands, Aliano dominates the Val d'Agri and the Sauro torrent and falls within the Comunità Montana Collina Materana. The village was already known and frequented as a centre of trade and passage by the Greeks and Etruscans, while in the 8th century, Basilian monks escaping persecution in the East found refuge in the caves in the Fosso San Lorenzo area. During the Middle Ages, Aliano was a fief owned by several families, including the Sanseverino and Carafa families, important and wealthy landowners who boasted estates in several regions of southern Italy. Inextricably linked to the village is the figure of Carlo Levi, who chose to set his book Christ Stopped at Eboli (1945) here and who spent his period of exile during the fascist regime in Aliano. In Aliano, Carlo Levi got to know its history and discovered its pure, peasant soul: deeply fascinated by 'his peasants', he expressed in his last will to be buried in the village where he had rediscovered a genuine reality linked to working the land and the ancient customs of the past. Today, the writer's presence is still strong in the village, where it is possible to visit all the places mentioned, and wander through the narrow streets to find some quotations from his work.
Visiting Aliano will transport you to a silent atmosphere far removed from time, full of historical and literary references in which to lose yourself, to discover the history of this village with a noble peasant soul. Two of the village's landmarks are the Carlo Levi House and Art Gallery, the latter of which houses letters, drawings and paintings by the writer that help us retrace his years in exile. Also dedicated to Carlo Levi is the Literary Park, where events and shows are organised dedicated to the town's identity and its ties with the artist. Another unmissable stop is the Museo della Civiltà Contadina (Museum of Rural Civilisation), located in an old oil mill, where, amidst works and artefacts typical of the rural tradition, it will be possible to immerse oneself in that dimension that characterised Aliano more than fifty years ago and which, with its genuineness and purity, won the heart of Carlo Levi, who came from modern Turin at the time. Strolling through the village's evocative streets immersed in the scenery of the calanchi (gullies), you can visit the 17th-century church of San Luigi Gonzaga, with canvases attributed to Teresa del Po, Carlo Sellitto and Antonio Sarnelli, and where the 15th-century wooden sculpture of the Madonna and Child is kept. While not far from the town centre is the sanctuary of the Madonna della Stella, which occupies a panoramic position, being situated on a small hill. Aliano is also located a short distance from Pisticci, one of the white cities of southern Italy, and from Craco, the charming ghost town with an unmistakable silhouette. The two centres, also surrounded by gullies, are picturesque and exciting stops that will make your stay in Aliano even richer and more pleasant.
Aliano cuisine is strongly linked to work in the fields, and to the traditions of rural life that once took place in the village. Authentic dishes, with intense flavours and often 'poor' ingredients, but always rich in taste and full of love for the land.
First courses include Rascatell, cavatelli made with water and flour and seasoned with dried pepper and saffron powder, and handmade fusilli served with fresh tomato. Winter dishes include minestrone made with chickpeas, beans and lentils and broad beans with chicory. An excellent side dish or main course is stewed cabbage seasoned with garlic, oil, fennel, tomato and pecorino cheese. Another typical dish, especially during carnival, is the rafanata di Aliano, which is an omelette made with grated raw horseradish, which gives it a spicy and aromatic flavour. Meat also finds a lot of space on Aliano tables, especially in sausages and soppressate or pork, which was traditionally eaten with bay leaves, white wine and pickled green peppers. Lastly, let us remember the gnummareddi, with a decidedly intense flavour, which would be lamb and kid innards barbecued. .
One of the most enthralling events that take place in Aliano is certainly Carnival: on this occasion there is a parade of the traditional 'cornute masks', so called because of their long coloured horns, during which women and children also parade in traditional costumes. On 21 June, the patron saint, Luigi Gonzaga, is celebrated with a procession of the statue along the streets of the town, followed by folkloric celebrations and musical moments.
In August, on the other hand, the event La luna e i calanchi (The moon and the gullies) is held, a festival in which the townspeople, artists and visitors become one big family, who can admire the work of photographers, writers, directors and musicians who will exhibit their works.
In November, literature is the protagonist during the Carlo Levi Literary Prize, where prizes are awarded for works of Italian and international fiction: an occasion to remember the figure of Carlo Levi and the writer's special bond with the village that became a place of the writer's heart.